Rio Manso Lodge, Patagonia Argentina

 I’m perched on a comfortable sofa next to one of the grandest fireplaces I’ve seen in either hemisphere, staring blankly out the window. Outside is a landscaped lawn and roses, a mist covered lake scantly a 2 minute walk down the hill and Mount Tronador framing the background in a permanent blanket of snow. I’m trying to conjure words to describe this beautiful mountain lodge in the heart of Patagonia, but my mind keeps diverting back to the fly fishing exploits of yesterday. I spent the day on Lago Fonk with the head guide at Rio Manso Lodge, and I can’t recall any previous experience to measure it with; this may be my new Standard of Comparison for Fly fishing Adventure.  

Rio Manso Lodge is quite unique in many respects; it’s location, amenities, and variety of Fly Fishing opportunities among them. Located only one hour south of San Carlos de Bariloche, which is easily reached with direct flights from Buenos Aires, or with connecting flights from Santiago, Chile; the lodge sits on private property in the very center of Nahuel Huapi National Park, arguable one of the most beautiful in Argentina. The lodge faces Lago Hess and Mt. Tronador to the north, and each of its nine private guest rooms have magnificent picture windows and views of this same landscape. The rooms are comfortably furnished to meet the highest level of expectation, but besides an occasional afternoon siesta, you will not be spending your vacation simply gazing out at the wonderful views. The first floor of the lodge is open and spacious, with several separate lounging areas, desks, and sofas; encompassed in hardwood floors, native stone work, and beamed ceilings. I found myself gravitating continually to the same comfortable sofa in front of the afore-mentioned fireplace. I had a warm fire to one side, a huge table in front to support my laptop and use Wi-Fi, and the amazing exterior views to my right. The main dining area and bar also occupy space on the first floor, and you can find easy access to the front gardens and side lawn with wooden furniture sitting under shade trees. It was literally impossible to find a location without a beautiful view of some variety. 

In seven years of operation, owner Roberto Pandolfi has managed to cultivate an outstanding fly fishing and vacation lodge in the middle of a visually stunning location. The lodge manager, Sharon Green, cultivates an atmosphere of Home rather than hotel, although I can’t honestly say that I have ever felt so pampered in my own home as I did at Rio Manso Lodge. Sharon and her staff seem to have a knack for knowing when you could use a cool drink, a snack, or a glass of fine wine; and your enjoyment is their primary concern. Even though fly fishing is the principle draw for this destination, Sharon can arrange a host of other adventures for non-fishing guests, such as horseback riding, hiking in the national park, glacier viewing, and even bird watching tours lead by a considerably well known Ornithologist. If you’re inclined to do a little shopping, she can arrange for a custom trip into San Carlos de Bariloche and give you a local’s edge on where to find the best deals. And the lodge also houses a private sauna and massage room. Meals at Rio Manso Lodge are what you would expect from a world-class vacation resort, and tailored to match the guests' schedules and desires; and custom meals are ready for the asking. You may also be treated to a typical Argentina Asado, which is as much a social affair as an exquisite meal.

Now for the good part; the Fly Fishing. Rio Manso Lodge has close access to four lakes and the Manso River, all with distinctly different fishing. The “channels” directly in front of the lodge are famous for last-light hatches and dry fly action; while the river and lakes all have multiple personalities, depending upon the season. I wasn’t sure how the fishing was going to be in early March during my visit, because my experience in other parts of Patagonia has been that after February many of the rivers and lakes start dropping and the water temperature starts rising; neither of which is conducive to consistent fishing. But Rio Manso Lodge falls completely outside the norm. For now, let me just tell you about Lago Fonk. Relatively few people fish this lake, firstly because it takes a good four-wheel drive to get there, and if you want to experience the extraordinary spring fishing, your guide will need to be skilled at winching as well (but it’s worth it). Secondly, because a boat is required to effectively fish this lake. Somewhere around mid-December each year (Spring in Argentina), this lake begins a hatch cycle of dragonflies that prompts the most incredible dry fly fishing you might ever experience in a lifetime. Imagine rainbow trout, brookies, and big brown trout leaping out of the water in pursuit of airborne meals. And these aren’t small fish, but monsters by most standards. Spring can be a little wet, so bring good quality raingear; but trust me, you won’t notice it much. I missed the early season frenzy of dragonflies, but was treated to another enjoyable personality of Lago Fonk; sight casting to hordes of fish in the 4 to 5 lb class with streamers, and actually watching them attack the fly. I was fishing with Javier Mesas, Head Guide at the Lodge. Javier has spent most of his life, living and fishing in this area, and his knowledge of the lake and fish is impressive. We were working from an outboard driven skiff with a casting platform in front, similar to a flats boat. Javier knew exactly where each feeder stream from the surrounding mountains makes contact with the lake; and we crept up slowly to each location, usually finding pods of fish stacked on the bottom with their noses to the incoming current and potential morsels. These fish were anywhere from 10 to 20 feet down, but the water in this lake is absolutely gin clear. We would approach to easy casting distance, fire a streamer with 250 grain Orvis Depthcharge Sinking Fly Line past the fish and give it time to sink deep. A few quick rips to get the fly moving and the trout were fighting for it. I spent most of the morning sighting and casting to Brook trout larger than any others I had previously seen in my life. We kept taking photo after photo of “big-fish” moments, until I finally asked Javier to take my rod and let me shoot a video of him taking one of the brook trout, (it may have just been an excuse to let my arm rest). My recuperation time didn’t last long, as Javier nailed a fish on the first cast. 

My impression of Lago Fonk became firmly cemented in my memories on the short boat ride back. Javier had a hunch about some of the huge brown trout that hold in deep water, and asked if I might want a crack at one. We rigged my 5 weight Orvis Helios rod with a big Zonker, and headed up to a shear rock wall that dropped straight into the lake. I made a cast directly onto the wall, let the fly slip into the water and then waited for Javier’s permission to strip. It was agonizing; he was determined to make sure the fly was close to bottom before moving it, and we were apparently hovering over an Abyss. When he gave the signal, I started counting out a series of hard strips; I only made it to “2”. Immediately after the impact, I turned to Javier and said, “This feels like a really heavy fish”; and then tried not to lose my composure. In fact, it turned out to be one of the largest brown trout that I’ve successfully landed; 28 inches and something close to 4 kilos. Sometimes these moments occur from shear dumb luck; but in this case, luck had nothing to do with it. Javier made it happen; (I suppose I should have had a clue when I first saw photos of Mel Krieger with Javier back at the lodge); my gratitude to an outstanding guide. 

I look forward to returning soon to Rio Manso Lodge, and I encourage you to keep this high on your list of “must do” destinations for Argentina Fly fishing. In fact, if you are interested in experiencing it for yourself, please send us a note at , because we may be holding a Hosted Group Event here in 2011, with a Photo-Essay to be published in a future issue. We have room for only 8 fishermen; don’t wait to long.

Memo Stephens

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