Featured Destination  - Estancia Alicura

I try very hard to be objective when I’m writing about a destination, but Estancia Alicura made it difficult. I had this overwhelming urge to stay there; …forever. Sell everything, and just become a permanent guest. It was really that good. Alicura is located in northernPatagonia, Argentina, close to three of my favorite fly fishing rivers: Rio Limay, Rio Collon Cura, and Rio Caleufu; all world class rivers for trout fishing. And if you are serious about Red Stag Hunting, this is a premier destination. But my desire to set up residency here was founded on more than just the fly fishing and hunting opportunities; it was about the people, and the experience that awaits you here.

Estancia Alicura’s owner, Ward Lay, has created an international caliber lodge for the adventurous sportsperson. Set amid towering century old conifers, and landscaped park grounds, is a main lodge that sets a tone of elegance and refinement in the heart of the Patagonia wilderness. The accommodations, furnishings, and amenities will not disappoint even the highest level of expectation. The main lodge has four private rooms; and a separate “duplex” has a private living area with salon, dining area, fully supplied wet bar, satellite television, Wi-Fi access, and three private guest rooms in each side. For the non-fishing or hunting companions, there’s a nice swimming pool and hot tub, hiking, and horseback riding. Guests can be picked up from the airport in Bariloche, Argentina, and have about an hour and a half ride to the seclusion of Alicura.

Meals at Estancia Alicura fall into the “fine dining” category, with commensurate service by highly trained staff. Given that this isArgentina, gourmet meals from top quality local beef, pork, and chicken are standard fare; and washed down with an outstanding variety of wine from the Andeluna vineyards in Mendoza Province of Argentina. As I live in this area of Argentina, I can testify to the excellence of the wines. I just wish we could buy the Andeluna brand where I live; but alas, most of it is exported to wine connoisseurs in the northern hemisphere. But for guests of Alicura, Ward Lay keeps a nicely stocked wine “cueva” with Andeluna’s best.

I have discovered through many adventures to outdoor destinations that the people I spend my time with often make or break my experience. I may forget how comfortable the bed was, or how delicious the last meal was; but I never forget spending several days in the company of people who share my passion for fly fishing and hunting, and whose presence made my experience richer. Perhaps Mr. Lay’s best achievement with Estancia Alicura has been the team that he attracted to run it. Danny Guillén leads the team at Alicura and his sense of perfection and service is matched only by his engaging personality. Fernando Gonzalez Vincens, one of the most experienced guides in Rio Negro Province, is the Director of Fishing Operations and the perfect man to introduce you to fly fishing in this part of the world. Virtually all of the guides and hospitality staff that I met during my stay at Alicura speak English as well, for those guests who may be a little rusty with their Spanish.

For the seasoned hunters of the world; if you seek a trophy class Red Stag, you need look no further than Alicura. The Estancia has an abundant herd roaming its 200,000 + acres of mesa, river valley, and forest; and one of the most impressive breeding programs I’ve ever seen. Select Stags from New Zealand, The United Kingdom, and Eastern Europe have been introduced into the native stock. The result is a population of wild stags within the boundaries of this estancia that have the best qualities of each region of the world; mass, width, and tine length. This is free range hunting on horseback, or by special four-wheel drive vehicles depending upon your adventurous nature. I had the chance to spend a little time glassing from the top of a mesa one afternoon with Fernando and Paco Rodriguez, who guides both fly fishermen and hunters at Alicura, and I saw stags lurking in the river basin with mass and crowns that I thought only existed in the realms of Photoshop.

For the fly fisherman, this is the land of legends, literally. Men like Mel Krieger, Lefty Krey, and Ted Williams have all made repeated trips to Patagonia to fish these waters. I have spent at least some time every year for the past four, fishing on the Rio Collon Cura, and I’ll be making another pilgrimage to the Rio Limay sometime in March. It’s my little version of heaven. My dream for next year is to float and camp the length of the Caleufu next year in mid-December. The guides at Estancia Alicura have the expertise and equipment to put you on the fish; the rest is up to you. And should you happen to need some gear that you didn’t bring, Alicura has an extremely well equipped shop with almost anything you could need. For a good checklist go to: What do I Really Need?

Unfortunately, this first article doesn’t provide the space to do justice to both the fly fishing and hunting opportunities at Estancia Alicura; so please stay tuned for more detailed articles and photo-essays on each topic. The monster brown trout will start their migration into the Limay river in a couple of months, and I never miss that. It just also happens to preceed the beginning of the Roar of the Red Stag at Estancia Alicura; how fortunate for me.

And for those who want to participate in a unique event, see our Hosted Trips page for current information, as we are definitely planning to be at Alicura next season for a Hosted Group Trip, and future Photo-Essay in The Patagonia Journal.

Memo Stephens